The South African National Anthem and Rugby World Cup

Last Thursday was a big day in SA as the country sent their national rugby team, the Springboks, off to New Zealand for the Rugby World Cup (SA is the current rugby world champ). There was a big send-off here in Jo'burg with bands, lots of beer, and the team making an appearance, signing autographs and posing for photos.  At one point everyone sang the national anthem, which is a beautiful song.  The words, on the other hand, are another story.  But it is an interesting story, to say the least. It consists of five languages. Following is a brief history of the anthem, the anthem itself and then the English translation.  I found this information on www.southafrica.info.

Before South Africa's first democratic elections in 1994, the country had two anthems – an official and an unofficial one. The official anthem was Die Stem, in English The Call of South Africa. The unofficial anthem, Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika, was a symbol of independence and resistance to apartheid, sung by the majority of the population and at all anti-apartheid rallies and gatherings. In the official anthem of the new South Africa, the two anthems merge into one.

Nkosi sikelel' iAfrika
Maluphakanyisw' uphondo lwayo,
Yizwa imithandazo yethu,
Nkosi sikelela, thina lusapho lwayo.

Morena boloka setjhaba sa heso,
O fedise dintwa le matshwenyeho,
O se boloke, O se boloke setjhaba sa heso,
Setjhaba sa South Afrika – South Afrika.

Uit die blou van onse hemel,
Uit die diepte van ons see,
Oor ons ewige gebergtes,
Waar die kranse antwoord gee,

Sounds the call to come together,
And united we shall stand,
Let us live and strive for freedom,
In South Africa our land.

The isiXhosa and isiZulu of the first stanza, the Sesotho of the second stanza and the Afrikaans of the third stanza translate into English as follows:

Lord, bless Africa
May her spirit rise high up
Hear thou our prayers
Lord bless us.

Lord, bless Africa
Banish wars and strife
Lord, bless our nation
Of South Africa.

Ringing out from our blue heavens
From our deep seas breaking round
Over everlasting mountains
Where the echoing crags resound ...

You can click on the link below to hear the song and follow along with the lyrics.  Be sure to have your speakers on!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXKur2FAN7g 

What's New in Jo'burg

Sorry for the long absence.  It has been a busy summer.  After Jonathan visited we flew back to the US for our annual trip to Squam Lake, New Hampshire with Jon's family and then I flew down to Florida to help my mom with packing up her large home after a quick sale and her purchase of a smaller duplex into which she is moving as I write this.

I have been back almost a week and thought I would update everyone on what is new here.  First of all, the worst of winter is finally over and I think I missed the worst of it anyway while I was in the US.  Winter is the dry season and now with the August winds blowing all you need to do for a little facial micro-dermabrasion is stand outside facing the wind. Who needs an expensive spa?  Seriously, the skies are clouded with blowing sand. You can taste it on your lips, you wipe it from your eyes, it blows in through the cracks in our doors and windows at home.  The spring rains will begin in October/November but until then I guess we will be dry (but at least we are warm!).

Sunday we went to St. Michael's Anglican Church for the first time.  It was our first church visit since we arrived in Jo'burg. It is a very traditional church from the outside-a small red brick church with stained glass windows.  The inside is very Tudor-styled with the arched and beamed ceilings.  It was lovely.  The congregation was racially mixed and a further mix of young and old. The service is very similar to the Episcopal Church with which we are very familiar so it seemed to go fairly well at first.  When it came time to sing the traditional parts of the service, the Sanctus (Holy, Holy, Holy) and others, they were all sung in an African language, Zulu I am guessing.  Jon and I were quite lost needless to say but it was certainly another reminder we are in Africa! 

Today for the first time I joined several other volunteers from the American Society who go weekly to Diepsloot (one of the settlements near us) and work with elementary age students who are struggling with their English skills.  South African education is all English-based.  Everything is taught in English and all books and other resources are printed in English.  For most children in Diepsloot, their native language is Sepedi, a northern South African and Zimbabwean language.

We met with 15 4th graders who were recommended by their teachers as needing more one on one help.  I sat with 4 students, 3 boys and one girl, all wearing their gold and blue school uniforms.  They were all polite, eager, and surprisingly clean (considering how hard the wind was blowing and how dusty their school grounds were). But upon closer inspection you could see the tatters in their uniforms, the unraveling of cuffs and hems, the holes and worn spots.  Some of the women who were there today also volunteer to go in and mend uniforms for the students.  We worked for 90 minutes on pronouns and silent "e" words and like any other children in the world got antsy and bored at different times.  But it was so wonderful to be back with kids and in a school.  I am going to start going in on Mondays as well and perhaps will put in some extra days to help in the library.

The title photo is of a group of boys from Diepsloot Combined Schools that was taken on a field trip to the Jo'burg Zoo 2 years ago.  The group I am volunteering with (called Edu-Fun) is planning another trip in October this year.  It should be a blast!

Diepsloot Combined School Grounds

KENYA

The picture above is what Mt. Kilimanjaro would have looked like the day Jonathan and I visited Amboseli National Park. Only problem was that it was so overcast and hazy we could only make out a small bit of the snow cap every once in a while.  But that is okay.  We still had a great day but I will come back to all that.

Jon had to go to Nairobi on business while Jonathan was visiting. We wrangled some frequent flyer tickets (as luck would have it, Kenya Airways is a Delta partner) and went along.  Nairobi is about a 3 1/2 hour flight from Johannesburg.  We stayed in a brand new hotel, which was a good thing because Nairobi for the most part is pretty old.  Jonathan and I knew we only had one good sightseeing day available to us so we got a driver who drove us 4 hours to Amboseli National Park which is right on the Kenya/Tanzanian border.  It was a bumpy road and very desolate landscape.  About half way there we stopped at a "curio" shop to use the bathroom and browse the souvenirs.  After being quoted an exhorbitant amount of money for some trinkets, I let him know I didn't have anywhere near that much cash.  He said that was okay, he took credit cards.  Jonathan and I looked at each other and laughed.  As if I would give this guy out in the bush my credit card number!

We drove in to Amboseli National Park. When I say "drove" I mean bounced, shook, swayed.  We drove the last hour of the trip over some of the most bone-jarring, teeth-rattling washboard dirt roads I have ever been on. We passed Massai warriors in traditional red dress herding cattle through the dry bush with their long thin staffs.  The park itself is enormous and for the most part just scrubby bush until you get deep inside where you find this giant lush area full of tall grasses and swampy wetlands.  This area is created by a large underground river that runs down from Mt. Kilimanjaro.  Here the herds of zebra, wildebeest, elephant, and hippo gather to eat, drink and cool off along with hundreds of birds. 

It is early in the migration of many of the herd animals that move each season to find water and food.  Amboseli is not the best place to see the annual migrations but we did see scores of animals. 

At lunch the driver took us to one of several lodges in the national park. This lodge, the Serena Lodge, was literally an oasis in the middle of this desert-like bush.  It was green and almost tropical.  The lobby was open-air and the restaurant had a buffet with white linen tablecloths and silver chafing dishes. What I thought was incredible is the fact that the entire national park is 2 hours from any civilization and has no electricity.  All these lodges operate on generators.  This lodge had about 90 rooms, which we didn't see but it did have a beautiful outdoor pool area and other public spaces. You could sit outside and look out over the bush and see the animals if they wandered close by.  There were monkeys on the hotel property.  Jonathan enjoyed the break after lunch, especially after the long ride.

The grounds of the lodge

Jonathan chillin' by the pool

 When we left Amboseli to drive back to Nairobi we saw this group of school children at the entrance to the park.  I am guessing they were on a field trip.  Sure beats any field trip I was ever on!

Our last night in Kenya we ate at the Carnivore restaurant. It is a tourist attraction/novelty but everyone says you have to go when you are there.  They cook all kinds of meat over an open fire and bring it around on spits to carve it directly onto your plate.  It was delicious!  The guys got brave and tried the crocodile, camel, and even ox balls.  I stuck with the traditional fare.

Our departure from Kenya was delayed by a day.  When we got to the airport the boards showed our plane had been canceled.  After much time standing in line (we were not alone, several other Kenya Air flights had been canceled) we were re-scheduled for the next day.  The airline put us up in an "African 5-star" hotel. Let's just say I slept with all my clothes on.  Anyway, rumor has it that several Kenya Air jets had been used to transport Kenyan dignitaries that day to the new country of South Sudan, where they were celebrating their newly won independence from Sudan.  The story goes that the festivities lasted longer than thought and the planes didn't make it back in time to operate for the Saturday night flights. I don't know if it is true but it makes for a good story.

I am in the US for a few weeks visiting family but I will be updating the blog as soon as I can.  Thanks for hanging in and checking it out. Much love to all-Jody

PS-don't forget to click on the highlighted sections to be taken to websites that will give you more info on those topics.  You can also become a follower of the blog and get emails when the blog has been updated.

The Rhino and Lion Game Reserve

Last Sunday the three of us went to the Rhino and Lion Game Reserve about 45 minutes outside Jo'burg.  It is a private game reserve that specializes in (you guessed it) rhinos and lions.  There is an animal creche where you can pet the white lion and Bengal tiger cubs.  Of course we had to do that and I could have stayed all day playing with these adorable babies.  Tigers are not native to Africa so it was a great thrill to see them.  White lions are white due to a rare genetic disorder.  Because they are white, they are very easy to spot in the wild which makes them much more exposed to predators.  The cubs we played with will eventually be released into the reserve to roam once they are too big or too aggressive to be around humans.  The animal handler told us that whether in captivity or in the wild, big cats eat only once or twice a week and sleep up to 18 hours per day.  I see where our cat Mobius gets his sleeping habits. Unfortunately he eats non-stop. Thankfully I don't have to bring home carcasses for him.

Because the cats have been raised by humans they are quite tame and cannot hunt on their own.  They are fed by the park employees.  In the adult lion habitat dead horses or cows are brought in several times a week to be fed to the lions.  We were there for a feeding and it was incredible to watch the lion pride slowly make its way down from the hills to the feeding area as feeding time approached.  Eventually the flat bed truck with the animal carcass began making its way down the hill.  The lions started running along beside the truck.  All three of us were discussing which employee had the lucky job of pushing the carcass out of the truck for the lions to feed. That issue was quickly settled when the lions just jumped on the still-moving truck and dragged the carcass off to begin feeding.  As the two head males ate, the one younger male and the 3 females waited somewhat impatiently for their turn.  They began to creep slowly closer.  When they got too close, the older males made it clear it wasn't time for them to eat yet.  The message was sent with some loud roaring and a few swipes of some huge paws. I am a little sad that the lions do not get to hunt for themselves but the park is huge and well maintained and the animals all appeared well-taken care of and content. 

A lion and his lioness relaxing in the sun

Waiting for the food to be delivered

The food truck arrives.
The land is black from a recent brush fire.
This is common here in the dry season and we
see several brush fires a night sometimes.

The park is also known for its work with rhinos.
Mother and her baby rhino.

A rescued baby rhino whose parents were killed by poachers
in Kruger Park, SA. The baby was brought here to keep safe.

Warthogs have been re-introduced to the highveld by this game reserve.

Sardine Run, Obama and Oprah: News from SA

Some big headlines from the last few weeks here in SA are listed below.  I have linked the news items to their sources so you can click on each link and read more about the items that you are interested in. Just double click with your mouse on each highlighted term and you should be re-directed to each link.

The Sardine Run along the Kwazulu-Natal Coast (where we just were 2 weeks ago in Durban) is always big news and an interesting natural phenomenon.  The blog title photo is of the sardines running with a shark watching from below.

Sardine Run
The sharks circle!

South Africa is gaining its own claim to royalty this weekend when Prince Albert of Monaco marries South African Charlene Wittstock today in a civil ceremony.  The festivities continue all weekend. The couple are honeymooning in Umhlanga (pronounced Umshlanga) at the Oyster Box Hotel, which is north of Durban. We drove by this hotel when we were in Durban 2 weeks ago.  Jonathan and I looked at staying there when we were trying to find hotels on the beach.  We quickly nixed it when we saw that rooms started about $10,000 USD per night. We figured Jon would feed us to the sharks if we booked that room!

Michelle Obama and her mother and daughters were in SA last week for an historical visit.  She was quite a popular attraction.  Coincidence or not but the same week that the Obamas were here, Oprah Winfrey was here to be awarded an honorary doctorate.  Stealing the limelight? Who knows.

Michelle Obama visited the Zandspruit settlement when she was here last week.  Today it is back in the news as protests and riots resume over unfulfilled candidate promises and lack of basic services.

Julius Malema, the head of the ANC (African National Congress) Youth League, is in the news daily.  Many South Africans are concerned about his growing popularity. You can read to find out why so many are worried.

Wal-Mart is coming to South Africa!  Need I say more? South Africans have a lot to say about it. 

Ever wonder why South Africa's websites end in ZA and not SA? It is a nod to the Dutch influence here-Zuid Afrika (South Africa in Dutch).  Just thought you'd like to know!  (Also-the dot com .sa got snatched up by Saudi Arabia)

Beach trip to Durban

I know I haven't been posting in a while.  To be honest, I have been feeling a little disillusioned lately.  (See last post).  But the last week has improved exponentially!  Jonathan got here a week ago and we have been going ever since.  We took a road trip to Durban, on the Indian Ocean.  It is a 6 hour drive from Jo'burg to Durban and quite scenic.  You drive southeast and parallel the Drakensberg Mountains for a while.  They are beautifully rugged with snow-capped peaks. They are the natural border between South Africa and the mountain nation of Lesotho (pronounced Lesutu), which is a tiny nation plopped down right in the middle of SA. (Click on the link above to read more about Lesotho.)

A desolate drive between Jo'burg and Durban.

The Drakensbergs in the background with snow on the very tops.

Our pitstop in Harrismith, about half way to Durban.

It is winter here but Durban stays relatively warm year-round.  The daytime temps were in the 70s though the water was a bit cooler.  We stayed right in Durban proper, a beach town that reminds me of an older Panama City Beach.  There is a beachfront boardwalk with a skate park, snack bars, and people of all shapes, colors, sizes, and ages strolling, jogging, biking.  We checked into a nice hotel overlooking the beach and spent the next few days just being tourists.  It was heaven.  We found a surfboard rental shop where Jonathan found a good deal on a board for a two-day rental.  We struck out for the beach only to find that, while the beachfront might resemble Panama City, the waves definitely do not.  Wave height varied anywhere from 5 to 15 feet!  Jonathan braved the cold water, the waves, and the extreme current but nature won out and he never did catch that perfect wave.  But I am happy to say that no sharks caught him either.  This coastline is known for being shark infested but Durban has invested in shark nets that run just offshore for miles along the coast.

The view from our hotel room

Such a surfer dude!

Jonathan eyeing the surf.

Durban beachfront. In the background is the Moses Mabhida Stadium, built for the Soccer World Cup in 2010.

Several people we know here in Jo'burg spend their summer vacations and other holidays in an area north of Durban called Ballito.  We took a drive up there and were blown away by the beautiful scenery.  The coast is mountainous, the beach rocky and the waves huge.  Jonathan spent the entire day trying to talk us into buying a beach house. Beach property is very reasonable here but still not reasonable enough for us!

The Ballito Coastline

The view from our lunch restaurant in Ballito

The Glamour Wears Off

Well, I knew it would happen.  The excitement of living overseas, of visiting 3 continents in 3 weeks, of "the most perfect weather in the world", has finally ebbed (nay, died) and reality has set in.  Winter does come to Africa-at least in the most southern part.  And while most of the year the weather is almost perfect, winter nights here get flat out frigid.  Freezing, in fact.  And houses with no heat other than one small fireplace get frigid as well.  Jon and I have spent the last week buying room heaters of various sizes.  We have a giant LP gas heater for the first floor and of course I have asked all the requisite questions: Is it safe? Are we going to explode? Die of carbon monoxide poisoning? Does it (the heater) have to sit right there in the middle of the room? We have also bought electric mattress pads and lots of firewood, kindling and starter sticks.  It isn't that I mind the cold, I just wasn't prepared to be Laura Ingalls and relive my favorite episodes of Little House on the Prairie every night.  And with the extra demand on electricity comes the rolling black outs.  We have lost power twice this past week.  One night Jon came home very late (around 11:00 pm) and yelled up the stairs at me to turn some lights on.  I told him I wished I could but the power was out.  I think he was so tired he didn't notice the entire neighborhood was dark when he drove in.

We have done without water this week as well.  No official explanation but we were without water for 24 hours.  I put my gym membership to good use (finally) and packed up a bag and went to the gym for a shower after a day without water.

The good news?  Life in Africa is still an adventure and a learning experience.  I have learned to use the sun and the glass windows to harvest heat during the day.  I have become a much better fire builder than even my dad would have believed.  We are not the only people to have to go to three different places before we can finally find a full LP gas tank. The power and the water always come back on at some point. 

And what did I realize yesterday as we drove around the highveld (pronounced high-feld and means high plateau, on which Jo'burg is situated)? I realized that even though it is cool and dry and there is a beautiful breeze there is also a heavy layer of smog across our province, Gauteng. Why?  Because there are literally millions of people in South Africa and tens of millions of people in Africa that do not have the financial resources to buy heaters and electric mattress pads. Their only source of heat is a wood fire. Their only source of wood is the wood they collect and/or chop themselves.  The smog is created by the millions of cooking and heating fires being built each day, fires that are necessary for survival.

Not so glamorous but so very grounding.

Love to all-Jody